Glimpses of the Sending Spirit

A short film about bouldering and projecting in Luohua, Åland Islands, Martti Servo block in Rovaniemi and Lofoten Islands on Season 2018.

Finally a year where at least something went according to the plan. Luckily there's still a lot more to do and to try for the years to come!

Lofoten Problems

Lofoten is a remote bouldering paradise way above the Polar circle where the sun does not set, where the views are just spectacular and where the weather conditions are perfect for summer time bouldering – if it does not rain.

In summer 2018 we spent 3 weeks on these magical Islands. It did not rain that much, but it was a lot warmer than usual.

This was my 7th summer on this magical place and mission was to finish finally Springflo, a heinous roof problem with spicy moves and somewhat small holds. Things did not go exactly according to plan, but the trip to Lofoten is always worth it, and we got to climb a lot.

10 years quest put to rest

One boulder problem at your personal limit that is at first way too hard and then takes 10 years to figure it out, get strong enough and eventually get everything right to be able to send it!

Not every problem get's solved in bouldering or in life in general but the ones that challenge you the most are never forgotten!

All in all it took 141 days split into 10 years' time frame. Here's how it actually went.

Feeling the Flow of Fontainebleau

The Forest of Fontainebleau, bouldering and problem solving at it's finest! It can be all sunny or all rainy or something in between, sometimes you succeed and sometimes you fail – but nevertheless feeling the flow of the forest is always worth it!

Searching for the sending spirit

When you've been climbing some time already you know it doesn't always go according to the plan as there is so many changing variables that do not necessarily match on given specific time no matter what you do. But that is just what makes climbing so interesting and challenging.

In the end it does not matter much what the variables happen to be if you just go out there, climb and enjoy while doing it! And if you even succeed in climbing something important to you or get forward with old multi year projects that's even better!

Here's a short clip from last year's climbing trips from multiple locations in Finland and also from Magic Wood in Switzerland.

It doesn't matter how long you have climbed or what you climb, pursuing your dreams is always worth the effort - and beyond.

This is what it looks like when you have been climbing for almost a year, you have only two trips to Font and one 6A boulder as outdoor experience, and you start trying a 7A boulder with a feeling - a dream - it might go someday.

Trying easier boulders in Luohua is not that good an option for shorter climbers as they are a bit on the morpho side for the grade as well as this one is. Strong will and some time to find the right beta and develop the powers needed were required too. And good, warm enough weather, of course.

About ethics in bouldering

Well, this subject will propably be like sticking your head into an ant's nest but still well worth it if we want to assume proper ethics in bouldering still exist. If they didn't you could as well use ladders and put a new brave and humble ascent to your 8a scorecard or whatever you prefer.

When you go out bouldering mostly you want to have fun while climbing but you know there are also some rules to follow when claiming something sent or repeated. On the basis of alarmingly growing number of tales and rumors about questionable ascents in the couple of last years this clearly isn't the case any more. Unfortunately "give me everything now no matter how" seems to be more important than sucking it up you didn't quite yet make it this time and sticking with proper ethics.

In the following examples it should be pretty clear you should rethink your ethics: You hit a separate stone in the proximity of the boulder you are trying while doing the crux move but it's ok as that's just how your sequence goes. Hmm, when a dab was allowed?

A one meter high landing has been built under a boulder and now you have to start three moves in compared to where the first ascent and couple of repeats were made. Does this make it the same? For pure safety a landing would be ok, but as one meter high it ruins the whole boulder. It cannot be climbed like it was opened any more.

You start a boulder from different starting holds than first ascentionist, in some cases as low start and some moves in even though it is a sit start. Or you stack up many pads to make the start easier for you. Well, do we even have to discuss about this, who do you fool but yourself?

The following may not be so clear but still pretty obvious in this era of recording an ascent to video and putting it to internet:

During climbing you did or did not notice hitting the pad but later on while watching the video it is clearly visible and audible it happened. Well, what can you say, there is always the next time when it goes. You hit the spotter when he/she is spotting too close. Safety comes first of course but a dab is a dab.

If we don't address these issues now but carry on spreading poor ethics in the crags and even on videos on the internet what do you think the next generation of climbers would consider as proper ethics?

Back in the early finnish bouldering days a climber dabbed into a pad while making a remarkable first ascent. While others were cheering about the ascent one purist just said what he had seen. The first ascentionist sucked it up and finished the boulder without a dab couple of days later. A first ascent was made without no questions to come.

Of course everybody can climb as they want, that is they beauty of our sport but if we wanted that bouldering we know now still exist and stays the same in the future we should keep the proper ethics and not forget them in our quest for glory. Getting something done by no means necessary should not be the ultimate goal.