keskiviikko 9. syyskuuta 2009
But let's cut the crap, shall we. As you already may or may not know Lofoten offers a growing bunch of awesome problems with good quality in a very picturesque setting. If you are planning a trip to Lofoten you should definitely try some or all of the following. Problems in order of appearance are: King Fisher 7A, Slarti barfast 7B+, Monster 8A, Michael Knight 7C+, Nightrider 7C+, Nightrider Hoyre 8A+, Viileä Viive 7A and Presten roof 7A+.
sunnuntai 12. heinäkuuta 2009
We arrived to Hiidenkirnut just before midnight just as planned termometer showing 9 and half degrees, excellent. Quickly we unpacked our stuff and headed to Planta Baja stone. After some proper warmup it was time to start the action. Couple of hours went by and it seemed that maybe the good weather was just not enough as early hours were taking its toll and the best edge seemed to be lost. I had almost thrown my axe into the well before my fourth go when Dr G. told me to change the music and put some good old beats pounding proven to be effective already in Eastern in Åland. First I thought it was no use but then why not to give it a shot, just one more go for the team you know.
While the song started I figured just to give my best, not to worry about anything else. As I got to the crux moves it started to get really heavy, after each move I was sure I was going to fall from the next move but somehow I didn't. Soon I was hanging on the lip just the mantel between me and the top. I had my feet badly but knew there was no time to waste. Luckily I got the mantel move started and finished it by force, Ugly as hell but effective. Four year's epic was over and the project was no more. But what was most satisfying was the style how it was done, that I had completely suprised myself by finishing it when I thought it was not going to go any more. Thanks from that, keeping excellent spirit and making good music choice go absolutely to Dr DJ G! Training montage worked it's macig again.
lauantai 27. kesäkuuta 2009
lauantai 13. kesäkuuta 2009
The problem felt surely harder than linnuntie at the same block but maybe a tiny bit easier than ladamies, a boulder of similar character in Luohua, so we'll just have to wait for repeaters' opinions until we get a confirmation about the grade. A very nice problem anyway and a decent addition to already vast collection of quality problems in Rovaniemi.
torstai 28. toukokuuta 2009
There is also a raw sequence of a linkup project, which starts with an easy slab and then links the Always broken other way around to No man's land finish, involving 15 hard, fingery, physical and somewhat acrobatic moves of which last two are the hardest. It certainly feels a good notch harder than No man's land assis. Let's see if the project get's it's FA on this season and other problems first repeats. The evenings and nights are still cold and friction good enough to try it and other problems out but the heat will come eventually.
tiistai 12. toukokuuta 2009
torstai 7. toukokuuta 2009
Last wednesday I, Rippe, Tomi and Matti took yet another trip to
After some warm up and some relaxing bullshit it was time to start the action. Rippe immediately got his hands on his high, scary and bold sloper problem which starts with jumpstart to a good jug, continues with a lockoff through good pocket to really bad sloper, match and then you are supposed to make a deadpoint or dyno, if you dare, to an even worse sloper with your feet around 3 and half meters from the ground. After couple of tries ice was broken and Rippe got the deadpoint to the higher sloper spot on but couldn't continue as the hand was slipping from the sloper. He dropped down and gathered some strenght couple of minutes. It was time to make it or break it, an ankle or two. This time he got the deadpoint again spot on, stretched as high as he could reach to a slightly better sloper, put his left foot blindly on a tiny edge and made the horror match to another sloper around six meters. A high ball classic, "Ystävät hämärän jälkeen" had gotten it's first ascent, a truly four star high ball of which you may need balls size of Siwa plastic bags to try and send. Grade suggestion 7Cish, siwa index 5.
Tomi soon took the advantage about the Rippe's send and made a stylish repeat to Standardipoikien homonurkkaus 7B by locking off the crux by everything he got left.