perjantai 27. toukokuuta 2011

Spiritual leader



Since founding the Pyhäntä boulder we had wondered how cool would it be to be able to climb the whole overhanging face all the way and top out from the highest point. Until yesterday it remained a distant dream but luckily with excellent conditions and support and courage from our spiritual leader Anton I managed to send the project. It became Spiritual leader and grade suggestion is around 8A. The sitstart adds three hard moves and remains as open project.
The last moves are not actually that hard than the moves at the beginning but you really don't want to slip from slopy sidepulls and fall while you are hooking with your feet 4 to 5 meters up from the ground.

Anton also showed his strong flash skills by flashing the Always Broken stand start 7C+. I believe this was third repeat and first flash to this line.

And by the way, please always try to leave the scene as it was when you arrived no matter where you were. In Pyhäntä boulder you have to move the log and wooden statues under the stone if you try the sit starts. Please remember to move them back as they were before in order to avoid any access issues. And of course brush the tick marks off. There is also many non climbing persons visiting the place.
I believe climbers trying the sit starts are not berry pickers so it is also a good cooling down exercise moving the log and statues back to their places. If I have succeeded to do it every time even just by myself no matter how tired I felt so should you =)

perjantai 20. toukokuuta 2011

Luohua action


Season has been on over two months now and still the main projects persitently avoid being sent so had to brush some new ones in the meanwhile.
The direct topout to Sabamies became a reality and as stand start it became Urpojen seurakunta. The grade is around 7C involving moves on really small edges and a long reach to good edge, topping then to the left with decent slopers. If you decide top out to the right into drunken woods it's Pussy wagon 7B+ then.
Lada miestä kuljettaa assis (8A/+) linked to Urpojen seurakunta became Ladamiesten seurakunta and weights somewhere around 8A+ propably, we well see after it gets repeated.
But the true gem here is Sabamies with Urpojen seurakunta top out, obviously called Sabamiesten seurakunta, involving 12 moves on tiny but good edges until the sloper top out to the left.

It seems "Ulilaisuus" is really paying back some of you efforts when you just don't give up and give always your best. Dr. G also found out this when he after first sending separately Elämä on pyyttonia 7B and DIstanssia arkeen 7A+ on different sessions linked them first go at the end of the day. This was second repeat to this Distanssia arkeen extension traverse 7C. Congrats!