torstai 28. lokakuuta 2010

Font classic

Had a short but fantastic trip to Fontainebleau and managed to send one of the classics I have always wanted to climb in font, La Balance. Have to definitely try the other classics climbed by Ben and Jerry on climbing movie The real Thing on next font trip.

lauantai 23. lokakuuta 2010

Paavo and 7 veljestä

Congrats to Paavo for making another ascent to Nurmijärvi test piece 7 veljestä 8A+. This was overall 6th repeat to the line and a third repeat by a member of Oulun Cave.

maanantai 11. lokakuuta 2010

Another classic from Jyväskylä

Again I found myself heading to Jyväskylä in a mission to try and send Paddington and Marvin but again the always changing autumn weather forced me to change my plans. This time I found myself, suprisingly but pleasantly from Muuratsalo, under the classic test piece Forte Risoluto which was already having some serious projecting by strong men from Eastern Finland. It did not take long until Sami got his mission completed by making solid send (Video of this on MTK's blog). Young local strong man Tuomo showed also no unnecessary respect to the classic and was really close making another ascent so I thought also to give my fair share to the problem. With good beta from Sami and Marko it went down quickly but the send also pretty much destroyed skin from my left hand so it was time to call it a day. Of course we went still to Paddington but it was nothing else than cry and tears. Well, maybe next time!

perjantai 1. lokakuuta 2010

Sweet dreams

Since laying my hands on traverse of perfect font like sloper on quick mid summer eve session a few years ago I had dreamed of going back on good conditions and trying to make all the moves and maybe also send the problem. Well, this time the dream turned into reality and a lot quicker than usual. Here is how it went.