sunnuntai 27. lokakuuta 2013

Ängesbyn, the place to be!

Last summer we heard, thanks to our swedish friends across the gulf, that a new awesome bouldering place was discovered near Luleå. If excellent rock quality, roofs and steep overhangs are what you consider good bouldering is all about this is the place to be. Take a look on some of the proudest and steepest what it has to offer.

tiistai 8. lokakuuta 2013

Northern bouldering 3

Some projecting and few sends and FAs from last summer 2013 in Myllis, Pyhäntä, Luppiovaara, Rovaniemi, Rian and Luohua.

Feel like I have to share some thoughts about the new FA of Desperado, as the start might seem a bit unobvious at first but if you think it is just a stand start one move higher where the full line can be climbed from low start. That first move of low start is just so hard for me that I have no idea when and whether I can do it or not so I decided to climb it from the stand start first.

That low start first move is single handedly the hardest move I have tried ever. For long time I wasn't even able to get to the wall properly or hang on the holds even with good friction. Imagining to be able to jump from those holds felt just ridiculous. However on next session after sending the stand start it was even better friction than on send day, it was cold, windy and cloudy and I was super syked. Somehow I was able to get to the wall pretty easily now and actually jump! That jump still fell about 10 to 15cm short from the right hand pinch you have to be able to catch properly, hold the swing, get feet back to the wall, swing them to heel hook on the right and be able to link two hard moves and top out fat hippo but now I know it's maybe doable, with super friction and a lot of luck.