perjantai 27. toukokuuta 2011
Since founding the Pyhäntä boulder we had wondered how cool would it be to be able to climb the whole overhanging face all the way and top out from the highest point. Until yesterday it remained a distant dream but luckily with excellent conditions and support and courage from our spiritual leader Anton I managed to send the project. It became Spiritual leader and grade suggestion is around 8A. The sitstart adds three hard moves and remains as open project.
The last moves are not actually that hard than the moves at the beginning but you really don't want to slip from slopy sidepulls and fall while you are hooking with your feet 4 to 5 meters up from the ground.
Anton also showed his strong flash skills by flashing the Always Broken stand start 7C+. I believe this was third repeat and first flash to this line.
And by the way, please always try to leave the scene as it was when you arrived no matter where you were. In Pyhäntä boulder you have to move the log and wooden statues under the stone if you try the sit starts. Please remember to move them back as they were before in order to avoid any access issues. And of course brush the tick marks off. There is also many non climbing persons visiting the place.
I believe climbers trying the sit starts are not berry pickers so it is also a good cooling down exercise moving the log and statues back to their places. If I have succeeded to do it every time even just by myself no matter how tired I felt so should you =)