perjantai 27. toukokuuta 2011
Since founding the Pyhäntä boulder we had wondered how cool would it be to be able to climb the whole overhanging face all the way and top out from the highest point. Until yesterday it remained a distant dream but luckily with excellent conditions and support and courage from our spiritual leader Anton I managed to send the project. It became Spiritual leader and grade suggestion is around 8A. The sitstart adds three hard moves and remains as open project.
The last moves are not actually that hard than the moves at the beginning but you really don't want to slip from slopy sidepulls and fall while you are hooking with your feet 4 to 5 meters up from the ground.
Anton also showed his strong flash skills by flashing the Always Broken stand start 7C+. I believe this was third repeat and first flash to this line.
And by the way, please always try to leave the scene as it was when you arrived no matter where you were. In Pyhäntä boulder you have to move the log and wooden statues under the stone if you try the sit starts. Please remember to move them back as they were before in order to avoid any access issues. And of course brush the tick marks off. There is also many non climbing persons visiting the place.
I believe climbers trying the sit starts are not berry pickers so it is also a good cooling down exercise moving the log and statues back to their places. If I have succeeded to do it every time even just by myself no matter how tired I felt so should you =)
perjantai 20. toukokuuta 2011
Season has been on over two months now and still the main projects persitently avoid being sent so had to brush some new ones in the meanwhile.
The direct topout to Sabamies became a reality and as stand start it became Urpojen seurakunta. The grade is around 7C involving moves on really small edges and a long reach to good edge, topping then to the left with decent slopers. If you decide top out to the right into drunken woods it's Pussy wagon 7B+ then.
Lada miestä kuljettaa assis (8A/+) linked to Urpojen seurakunta became Ladamiesten seurakunta and weights somewhere around 8A+ propably, we well see after it gets repeated.
But the true gem here is Sabamies with Urpojen seurakunta top out, obviously called Sabamiesten seurakunta, involving 12 moves on tiny but good edges until the sloper top out to the left.
It seems "Ulilaisuus" is really paying back some of you efforts when you just don't give up and give always your best. Dr. G also found out this when he after first sending separately Elämä on pyyttonia 7B and DIstanssia arkeen 7A+ on different sessions linked them first go at the end of the day. This was second repeat to this Distanssia arkeen extension traverse 7C. Congrats!
torstai 28. huhtikuuta 2011
There is something about the forests of Fontainebleau that cannot be described. You have to see, feel and experience it for yourself until you may find what it is. What is even more strange is that the experience gets better every time, the more you spend time and climb there.
Again as starting trip of the season the plan was to climb more a bit easier stuff, try a lot, send harder ones in one session or two if possible and most importantly have fun trying. And of course get fitter for the rest of season for which I can not imagine a better recipe than almost nonexistent seem footholds typical to font combined with varied compression climbing on slopers or slopy edges.
Well, it was a good plan and became even better when Nalle and Andy came along. Virtually every day was spent in the forests either climbing, just carrying pads, slacklining or shooting video and stills. No mercy was shown, if tiredness was felt you just tried harder at least that one more try. You wouldn't just give up in the middle of the wall while soloing, would you? The difference of being tired and just feeling tired was eventually found.
sunnuntai 24. huhtikuuta 2011
Season has been on quite awhile now and it never has been so much fun before. It makes one think what makes bouldering fun in the first place? Is it just about the projects that make everything or is it more about the friends that are climbing with you and create the positive atmosphere which makes things fun and everything possible.
I'd say it is first about the projects that motivate you but it is the friends that courage, support, spot and make the right atmosphere you need to have fun and finally send the projects. It also helps if you have many projects at the same time in order to avoid getting frustrated to just that one particular project. The more you can climb outside the more fun you will probably have!