torstai 28. lokakuuta 2010

Font classic

Had a short but fantastic trip to Fontainebleau and managed to send one of the classics I have always wanted to climb in font, La Balance. Have to definitely try the other classics climbed by Ben and Jerry on climbing movie The real Thing on next font trip.

lauantai 23. lokakuuta 2010

Paavo and 7 veljestä

Congrats to Paavo for making another ascent to Nurmijärvi test piece 7 veljestä 8A+. This was overall 6th repeat to the line and a third repeat by a member of Oulun Cave.

maanantai 11. lokakuuta 2010

Another classic from Jyväskylä

Again I found myself heading to Jyväskylä in a mission to try and send Paddington and Marvin but again the always changing autumn weather forced me to change my plans. This time I found myself, suprisingly but pleasantly from Muuratsalo, under the classic test piece Forte Risoluto which was already having some serious projecting by strong men from Eastern Finland. It did not take long until Sami got his mission completed by making solid send (Video of this on MTK's blog). Young local strong man Tuomo showed also no unnecessary respect to the classic and was really close making another ascent so I thought also to give my fair share to the problem. With good beta from Sami and Marko it went down quickly but the send also pretty much destroyed skin from my left hand so it was time to call it a day. Of course we went still to Paddington but it was nothing else than cry and tears. Well, maybe next time!

perjantai 1. lokakuuta 2010

Sweet dreams

Since laying my hands on traverse of perfect font like sloper on quick mid summer eve session a few years ago I had dreamed of going back on good conditions and trying to make all the moves and maybe also send the problem. Well, this time the dream turned into reality and a lot quicker than usual. Here is how it went.

tiistai 31. elokuuta 2010

Autumn ascents in Luohua and Pyhäntä

Autumn and it's good frictions are finally here. Sami took a flight from the south and during last weekend in Luohua managed to make the third repeat of Lada miestä kuljettaa assis, which he thought felt more like 8A, and a flash to Standardipoikien homonurkkaus 7B. In Pyhäntä he got the first repeat to Always broken stand start 7C+ and a week later Osmo managed to grab the second repeat.

tiistai 3. elokuuta 2010

Switzerland in June 2010

Here's a bit longer story what happened in Switzerland during our 3 weeks trip in June 2010. During first two weeks the weather could have been a lot better but what can you do. With weather you don't always get what you would like to have.
Eventually the sun came up and we had really good time in Magic woods, Chironico and Cresciano. Will definitely have to get back there again and hope the weather will be even a bit better!

sunnuntai 4. heinäkuuta 2010

On the Edge of darkness

It was about five years ago when we found out Luohua boulder existed. Immadiately after arrival we spotted the most obvious and beautiful line of the stone, a rounded arete on top of a steep overhang. The arete and it's slopers looked really attractive and challenging. It seemed that the upper part of the arete had no holds at all or we could not hold onto them at all at that time. The lower part seemed more doable and it did not take long until Osmo climbed half of the arete, named it as Iisak and thought the grade could be around 7A.

The upper part though felt still much too hard and remained almost untouched for couple of years until in the autumn 2007 Risto and I started to projecting it. We came pretty close but could still not send it before the winter. The first ascent had to wait until spring 2008 when Risto opened Fat Hippo and I got the second ascent couple of weeks later. We though the grade could be around 8A so many tries it had taken from us. Later on that summer we also figured out the two hardish hand moves and couple of foot moves linking Iisak and Fat Hippo but could not get proper trys until spring 2009 when I came across a hook sequence that felt heinously delicate but seemed doable.

After two months of trying I thought being close when I once got to the crux match completely exhausted but could not switch the index fingers on the tiny pebble in order to be able to try the last and hardest move, a jump to a decent hold. The autumn was really moisty so I had to wait until end of october for good crispy conditions to continue where I left of in the spring just to notice, no dice still anywhere near.

This year after a good start of the season in Font I headed straight back to project hoping to send it quickly when the temperatures were still below zero. After four sessions with really good conditions, coldest was about -11 degrees when I left, I got frustrated and thought some change might do some good, so I headed to southern Finland for couple of weekends to try the 7 veljestä. When it went down so quickly I came back to project even more motivated. It took some good 20 sessions more after sunset but luckily I managed to send the project on the last evening before we headed for 3 weeks trip to swizzy. What a relief!

I believe this was the easiest project that was left in Luohua but as it still took so much effort and time fine tuning the beta and finally send it with very good conditions I have no choice but suggest 8B. It felt more than a notch harder than the stand start Fat Hipo. Let's see how it turns out after it gets repeats. There is still at least five open projects ready and waiting to be opened in Luohua.

maanantai 19. huhtikuuta 2010

Another 7 brothers

Sometimes it might look a bit sad being a boulderer in Oulu but once you get used to and are up to some frequent drive mileage you realise possibilities are almost endless. After getting frequently shut down by local projects I thought some change might actually do some good and eventually it did a bit easier than I had gotten used to.

keskiviikko 14. huhtikuuta 2010

Sami and 7 veljestä

Here is some footage from last saturday Sami crushing on Seitsemän veljestä at Nurmijärvi. It could have gone down that day multiple times or even a session before but it was not to be this time. Some rare times you can even get more out of it when it does not go easily and without that extra effort. Congrats to Sami about finishing the job yesterday!

torstai 18. maaliskuuta 2010

Few from font

Here is a couple of somewhat classic problems from a quick trip to font in this spring. It is always so refreshing and inspiring yet a bit challenging to start a season in font after training indoors mainly with edges on steep overhang. But oh boy it sure is fun to try to trust those footholds that at first feel nonexistent.