torstai 7. toukokuuta 2009

Ystävät hämärän jälkeen

Last wednesday I, Rippe, Tomi and Matti took yet another trip to Oulu bouldering mecca, Luohua, in a mission to send some old projects that had been haunting us all spring. Weather was perfect, it had been cloudy all day and temperatures were around 10 degrees, which was a really pleasant welcome, as two of the projects were on the sunny side of the stone and would soon become even too hard to send because of the heat (just lack of strenght).

After some warm up and some relaxing bullshit it was time to start the action. Rippe immediately got his hands on his high, scary and bold sloper problem which starts with jumpstart to a good jug, continues with a lockoff through good pocket to really bad sloper, match and then you are supposed to make a deadpoint or dyno, if you dare, to an even worse sloper with your feet around 3 and half meters from the ground. After couple of tries ice was broken and Rippe got the deadpoint to the higher sloper spot on but couldn't continue as the hand was slipping from the sloper. He dropped down and gathered some strenght couple of minutes. It was time to make it or break it, an ankle or two. This time he got the deadpoint again spot on, stretched as high as he could reach to a slightly better sloper, put his left foot blindly on a tiny edge and made the horror match to another sloper around six meters. A high ball classic, "Ystävät hämärän jälkeen" had gotten it's first ascent, a truly four star high ball of which you may need balls size of Siwa plastic bags to try and send. Grade suggestion 7Cish, siwa index 5.

Tomi soon took the advantage about the Rippe's send and made a stylish repeat to Standardipoikien homonurkkaus 7B by locking off the crux by everything he got left.

3 kommenttia:

  1. Mahtavuutta. Blogin nimikin napsahti kerralla kohilleen!

  2. Oulun kiipeilyn ydin kiteytyy täällä!

  3. :D

    Hyvä tuo bannerikuvakin -sopii nimeen kuin nyrkki silmään.